Determine the right needle for a sewing thread:

Here’s a quick way to determine if the thread and the sewing machine needle are compatible:

Take half a metre of the thread being used on the machine and thread it through the eye of a loose needle

Hold the thread vertically with the needle at the top

·         If the needle is too big, it will drop to the bottom of the thread

·         If the needle is too small, it will stick at the top of the thread

·        

SEWING MACHINE which are used in Garments Industries # 01

Sewing is a creative and interesting skill. The knowledge of sewing give a confident feeling when it is applied to the construction of garments. The earlier method of sewing by hand is not applicable for all stages of garment making. Therefore, considerable emphasis is given to machine sewing. There are several machines in the market today, each with its own desirable features and advantages. Sewing machines range from most basic having only simple lock stitch to the electronic machines that use advanced computer technology having various functions for

Example : piping, binding, ruffling, pleating, darning, hemming and even making buttonholes and attaching fasteners. A good sewing machine is required to obtain quality products. One has to be familiar with the characteristics of different types of machines for selecting appropriate machine, depending upon the ability and requirements of the person. 

1.1 TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES:

Sewing machines are now available in various models such as domestic model, tailor model, industrial model, portable and cabinet models. They may be operated by hand, treadle or electric motor.

Hand – Operated Sewing Machine:

GARMENT MANUFACTURIGN PROCESS

1 Industry Background

The research is conducted in garment industry whose major products are Men’s formal shirt in various order size. The factory consists of central cutting department, 3 independent stitching lines and central finishing (packing) section. Generally, operators are responsible for the quality of individual work, even after that there is quality check (audit) at the end of each section (department) so that there should not be any defective parts transferred from one section to another section. The overall production flow chart of the shop floor is shown in Figure 3.

Garments Labels | Different types of Label which are used in garment industry

Garments Labels:

Garments labels are sewn or printed in garments and contain, country of origin, manufacturer identification number, care instruction, and voluntary information identifying size and brand. Garments labels should be affixed and legible for the useful life of the apparel item. Garment labels are selected based on location of label (interior or exterior application); type and design of the garments; contact with the wearer’s skin; intricacy or simplicity of the label content (logo, graphic art, word, and so on); garment fabric, brand, quality, and price point; and information to be disclosed.

Label types:

Garments labels are created by manufacturers from both mature and synthetic fibers and can be woven or printed. Woven labels are more durable and maintain their appearance and legibility longer than printed labels after repeated laundering or dry-cleaning. Materials used for sew- in labels include acetate, cotton, bamboo, polyester, leather, suede, PVC, silicon, or rubber.

How to Calculate Garments Cost of Manufacturing (CM) | Knit Garments CM Calculation Formula

CM is the abbreviation for Cost of Manufacturing. In apparel industry CM means Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments. To calculate Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs knit garments of a specific order we must know-

1. Monthly expenditure of the factory,

2. Total running machine,

3. Machine qty to execute the layout of the specific order,

4. Daily (8 hour/day) productivity of the said order (excluding alter and reject) and

5. Dollar conversion rate (if monthly expenditure amount is other than US Dollar)

Suppose,

-Monthly Factory Expenditure is BD Taka 40,00,000
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What are Allowances & Different types of allowances which are used in garments industries?

Allowance:

The normal time for an operation does not contain any allowances for the worker. It is impossible to work throughout the day even though the most practicable, effective method has been developed. Even under the best working method situation, the job will still demand the expenditure of human effort and some allowance must therefore be made for recovery from fatigue and for relaxation.

Allowances must also be made to enable the worker to attend to his personal needs. The allowances are categorized as:

1. Relaxation Allowance: 

Relaxation allowance may be of two types:

Basic requirements for good quality sewing thread?

Good tensile strength

Good tensile strength holds the stitched seam securely during wash and wear.

Smooth surface and absence of faults

Smooth surface and absence of faults ensures less friction between the needle and the material during high-speed sewing. The thread must be well lubricated to increase its sew ability and resistance to abrasion.

Classification of Sewing thread ?

Thread classification:

Thread can be classified in different ways. Some common classifications are those based on:

1. Substrate

2. Construction

3. Finish

1. Classification based on substrate

Natural

The usage of thread made from natural substrates is now minimal in industry applications. However, the most commonly used natural thread is cotton thread.

Synthetic

Due to the limitations of natural fibres, thread users have turned to threads made from synthetic fibres as they have desirable properties of exceptionally high tenacity, high resistance to abrasion and good resistance to chemicals. They are also not significantly affected by moisture, rot, mildew, insects or bacteria.

How to Measure Button Ligne in Garments Industry?

What is Button Ligne?

A button's ligne, refers to a button's size. The word ligne, is a French word that became the standard reference used by German button manufacturers in the early eighteenth century. Ligne is expressed as “L” which is the internationally recognized standard. Consensus at the time was that a "ligne" measured the inside diameter of a "round wick folded flat." One inch is equal to 40 English ligne, 11 French ligne, and 25.5 mm.

Measuring a button - When measuring buttons, we generally are referring to the diameter of the button.   A one inch diameter is called a 40-ligne, which can also be written as 40 Line or simply 40L.

Button Size Measurement Method in Garments Sector:

To measure the button size, we have to use ligne.

We Know,

1 inch = 25.4 mm = 40L

So, 1L = 0.635 mm

Button Ligne (L) = Button Diameter (mm)/0.635

Example-01:

The American Care Labeling System?

According to the Federal Trade Commission’s Care Label rule, care labels may be composed of either words or symbols. Irrespective of whether the content is words, symbols, or both, care instructions appear in the following order:

1. Machine wash / Hand wash / Dry-clean

2. Washing temperature (hot / warm / cold)

3. Washing machine programme (delicate / permanent press / normal cycle)

4. Bleaching instruction (do not bleach / non-chlorine bleach / chlorine bleach)

5. Drying method (tumble dry / line dry / flat dry / drip dry)

6. Ironing (do not iron / cool iron / warm iron / hot iron)

The European Care Labeling System?

Individual committees of the European Union are reviewing existing care label standards by collaborating with other international bodies so that they can create a unified system under the ISO scheme.

The symbols used in Europe are trademarked by GENETEX and a trademark fee needs to be paid to GENETEX, the trademark holder, if the garments are to be sold in a GENETEX country.

A correct care label for European countries is required to consist of at least four and sometimes five symbols in the following sequence: 1) Washing, 2) Bleaching, 3) Ironing, 4)

What is Accessories ? What are the Differences between Trims and Accessories?

Introduction :

A Fashion accessories is an item used to contribute, in a secondary manner, to the wearer's outfit, often used to complete an outfit and chosen to specifically complement the wearer's look. The term came into use in the 19th century.

Fashion accessories are decorative items that supplement one's garment, such as jewelry, gloves, handbags, hats, belts, scarves, watches, sunglasses, pins, stockings, bow ties, leg warmers, leggings, neckties, suspenders, and tights.

Fashion accessories add color, style and class to an outfit, and create a certain look, but they may also have practical functions. Handbags are for carrying small necessary items, hats protect the face from weather elements, Laptops provide mobile connectivity and are used to increase work power and gloves keep the hands warm.

Differences between Trims and Accessories:

What is garments sample & how many types of sample used in garments ?

Sample

Sample is the prototype or model of the garments upon what buyer can decide on how and whether to confirm the order or not. In garments industry, this sample come from buyer and it is followed from bulk production called sample.

 Types of sample

1.      Photo sample: The sample is made for modeling, it is worn by the model on the event of shooting for catalog or it is used for fashion show.

2.      Sales man sample: The sample is made for market appraisal or marketing purpose then it is called sales man sample. It is made at the final stage of the order confirmation and actual materials

Quality check to ensure quality product

In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products. However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets.

Here it follows: 

• Understanding the customers' quality requirements
• Organizing & training quality control department
• Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the QC department
• Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the Production Department.
• Establishing quality plans, parameters, inspection systems, frequency, sampling techniques, etc
• Inspection, testing, measurements as per plan
• Record deviations
• Feed back to Production Department

PRESSING TOOLS USED IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION:

PRESSING TOOLS

Iron:

This keep an automatic iron handy for pressing fabric before cutting, during construction and after the garment is completed.

Steam Iron:

It has an adjustable temperature control, and is equipped with a thumb press for automatic steam. Distilled water is heated, and the resulting steam can be released with the thumb press while pressing.

Ironing Board:

It is used for hand pressing which is padded and of convenient height. One may use an

Garments manufacturing process :: Fabric cutting section

CUTTING

To fabric cut out pattern pieces of garment components as per exact dimension of the patterns from a fabric lay is called fabric cutting. It is totally different from general cutting in which exact dimension is not taken into account. The term fabric cutting is only applicable for garments manufacturing technology.

REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING

The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:

1. Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy.
2. Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and

CUTTING TOOLS USED IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION:

CUTTING TOOLS:

The following types of shears and scissors are made for both right-handed and left- handed cutting. All cutting tools must be kept sharp, clean, and grease-free for accurate cuts.

Bent-Handle Shears:

They are 8 to 10 inches long (Fig. 2b). They are used for cutting all types of fabrics. Shears differ from scissors in that they have one small ring handle for the thumb and a large ring handle for the second, third and fourth fingers.

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How to design at garments Sewing Station? | Seating Arrangement

Employees encounter several risk factors at sewing workstations, such as awkward arm, neck, trunk, and leg postures. These postures are influenced by the size of the worker and the design of the workstation. This section explains potential hazards encountered at the workstation and a general description of a proper workstation design.

• Chair
•  Table
•  Treadle/Pedal

1. Chair:

Potential Hazards: 

Workers often maintain awkward shoulder, elbow, and wrist postures (Fig. 1) while sewing because of improper chair height or position.

Employees must sit or stand for long periods in the same position, resulting in soreness of the back and neck, and/or buttocks, and reduced circulation to the legs.
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Printing section in Garments & Flow sequence of Rubber Printing???

PRINTING SECTION:

Printing section is playing a vital role in garments section. Garments value can be increased for using printing. Different types of print are given below:
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Installation of Manual system for Marker making

MANUAL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

A Marker is made by placing pattern after pattern into the marker space. This space defines the fabric that will be utilized in the lay. The space is defined by the following components which are common to all markers.

 Fig 1: Manual system installation for Marker making.
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