Types of Natural Dyes

Natural dyes can be sorted into three categories: natural dyes obtained from plants (Indigo), those obtained from animals (cochineal), and those obtained from minerals (ocher). Although some fabrics such as silk and wool can be colored simply by being dipped in the dye, others such as cotton require a mordant.

A mordant is an element, which aids the chemical reaction that takes place between the dye and the fiber so that the dye is absorbed. Containers used for dying must be non-reactive (enamel, stainless steel.) brass, copper or iron pots will do their own mordanting. Not all dyes need mordants, such as lichens and walnut hulls, they are called substantive dyes. If they do need a mordant, they are called adjective dyes.

Common mordants are: ALUM, usually used with cream of tartar, which helps Evenness and brightens slightly; IRON (or copperas) which saddens or darken colors, bringing out green shades: TIN, usually used with cream of tartar, which blooms or brightens colors, especially reds, oranges and yellows; BLUE VITRIOL which saddens colors and brings out greens and TANNIC ACID used for tans and browns.

One example of natural dye obtained form plants is madder, which is obtained form the roots of the madder plant. The plants are dug up, the roots washed and dried and ground into powder. During the 19th century, the most widely available fabrics were those which had been dyed with madder - the 'turkey red' that was considered brilliant and exotic. The madder plant continued to be used for dyeing until the mid 1800s when a synthetic substitute was developed.

Another example of a natural dye obtained from plants is wood. Until the middle Ages, Europeans used wood to create a blue fabric dye. The wood was widely used in Europe. The coloring was in the leaves, which were dried and ground mixed with water, and made into a paste. This dye was supplanted by indigo an ancient shrub well known to the Egyptians and Indians. Like wood, its color lay in its leaflets and branches. The leaves were Fermented, the sediment purified, and the remaining substance was pressed into cakes.

Indigo prevailed as the preferred blue dye for a number of reasons. It is s substantive dye, needing no mordant, yet the color achieved is extremely fast to washing and to light. The manufacture of natural indigo lasted well into the early 1900s.

Natural dyes obtained from minerals Ocher is a dye obtained from an impure earthy ore of iron or a ferruginous clay, usually red (hematite) or yellow (limonite). In addition to being the principal ore of iron, hematite is a constituent of a number of abrasives and pigments.

Natural dyes obtained from animals

A good example is cochineal, which is a brilliant red dye produced from insects living on cactus plants. The properties of the cochineal bug was discovered by pre Colombian Indians who would dry the females in the sun, and then ground the dried bodies to produce a rich, red powder. When mixed with water, the powder produced a deep, vibrant red coloring. In fact, most cherries today are given their bright red appearance through the artificial color " carmine ", which comes from the cochineal insect.

Name of Dyes from plants. Major Natural :

ANNATO is from the pulpy part of the seeds of Indian plant. Bixa orellana : Fugitive orange red color.

BRAZILWOOD is from wood of the tree, Caesalpinia Echinacea: bright red color.

CUDBEAR comes from the lichen, Lecanora tartarea : lilac color dye.

CUTCH is obtained from boiling the wood of Acacia catechu, native to India: rich brown color.

FUSTIC. OLD: Obtained from wood of tropical American tree. Chlorophora tinctoria: gold to yellow in color and still popular on wool.

FUSTIC. YOUNG OR ZANTE: Comes from the powered wood of the Rhus cotinus, a shrub size tree of the cashew family: yellow to dark olive in color.

INDIGO is obtained from the plant, Indigofera tinctoria: blue color.

KERMES is extracted from bodies of tiny insect, Coccus arborum ; red dye.

LAC is obtained by boiling tree incrustation produced by tiny lac insect. Tachardia lacca ; bright red color.

LOG WOOD comes from a Central American tree, Haematoxylon campechium; gives purple on wool, blue and black in silk.

MADDER comes from the roots of the plant, Rubos tinctorum ; red color. Produces alizarin.

QUERCITRON comes chiefly from then inner bark of the black oak, Quercus nigra; brown to yellow colors.

Names of Dyes from plants, minor natural :

BENGAL KINO TREE, Butea monosperma.

BABUL TREE, Acacia scorpioides.

BAEL TREE, Aegle mermelos.

INDIAN MADDER, Rubia cordifolia.

HENNA PLANT, Lawsonia inermis.

MONKEY FACE TREE, Malotus phillippinensis.

POMEGRANATEA. Punica granatum.

RED SANDLEWOOD, Pterocarpus santalinus.

SYRIAN RUE, Peganum harmala.

TAMARIND TREE, Tamarindus indica.

TULIP TREE, Thespesia populnec.

Aniline Dyes

3.171 Aniline is a chemical that is a by-product of burning coal. The first synthetic dye (mauve, Developed in 1856) was a coal tar product and contained the chemical aniline but the term "aniline" has been used to include other chemical type dyes. The synthetic dyes do not contain the chemical aniline. Take note that the class of dyes known as aniline is chemicals and as such should be treated with respect. Protective gloves and eyewear is a must and breathing the powered dyes is prohibited.