The smallest failure in thread performance results in
losses on investments in material, equipment, garment engineering, and labor.
Hence, it is important to know your thread thoroughly. Enhancing thread
knowledge, analyzing thread parameters, the right selection procedure and use
of thread plays a major role in achieving good sewing performance and the
desired seam quality.
This Bulletin Post serves an introduction to the types of
threads, the properties, thread construction, and factors affecting thread
performance.
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What is sewing
thread?
Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are
engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly. They form
efficient stitches without breaking or becoming distorted during the useful
life of the product. The basic function of a thread is to deliver aesthetics
and performance in stitches and seams.
What are the factors that affect functions of a sewing
thread?
Factors affecting
aesthetics
Colour, lustre and fineness / thickness should be
considered while selecting a thread for decorative purposes such as top
stitching or embroidery.
Other considerations include:
1. Hue and shade matching
2. Colour fastness
3. Stitch selection
4. Uniformity of stitch formation
Factors affecting
performance
Thread used in garments must be durable enough to
withstand the abrasion and needle heat that occur while sewing, garment
finishing, stretching and recovery during wear.
Thread performance in garments can be evaluated from its
1.
Seam strength
2.
Abrasion resistance
3.
Elasticity
4.
Chemical resistance
5.
Flammability
6. Colour fastness
Thread
classification:
Thread can be classified in different ways. Some common
classifications are those based on:
1.
Substrate
2.
Construction
3. Finish
What is “Sew
ability”?
'Sew ability' of thread is a term used to describe a
sewing thread’s performance. A thread with good sew ability is uniform in
diameter with a good surface finish. Longitudinal uniformity of thread
contributes to uniform strength and reduced friction, as it passes through the
stitch forming mechanisms. It also minimizes thread breakages and the
associated costs incurred from rethreading machines, repairing stitches and producing
inferior quality products.
Sew ability
parameters:
The parameters that define the superior sew ability of
thread are:
1. No breakages in high-speed sewing
2. Consistent stitch formation
3. No skipped stitches
4. Evenness, to prevent changes in tension during sewing
5. A high level of abrasion resistance
6. Sufficient surface smoothness, to pass easily through
the machine guides
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