MEASURING TOOLS USED IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION:

Measuring Tape:

It has a smooth surface that is clearly marked with increments of inches and centimeters on both sides. It is usually about ½ inch to ¼ inch wide and 60 inches long, and has 1/8 divisions (Fig. 2g). At one end of the tape is attached a brass strip about 3 inches long and at the other end, a small brass covering.

Rulers:

They are used in sample rooms which are either clear plastic or metal. It is useful to have

SEWING AND EMBROIDERY TOOLS USED IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION:

Besides a sewing machine in good condition, well selected sewing equipment and pressing equipment are essential for making garments of good quality and appearance.

Sewing box / kit: First and foremost, one should have a box or basket with compartments for keeping the things needed for sewing.

SEWING AND EMBROIDERY TOOLS:

Hand Sewing Needles:

They are found in sizes from the very fine 9 to the heavy 18. The best quality needles are made of hand ground steel. For hand sewing medium length needles with a short oval eye is selected. Crewel needles designed for embroidery work have a long oval eye.

Sewing Machine Needles:

They are found in sizes from the fine 9 to the heavy 18. The needles are made to fit the

Common Sewing Machine Troubles:

The sewing like any other machine, gives troubles of stitching like thread breaking, uneven stitching, puckering, bending and breaking of needle, looping of threads, skipping of stitches, etc. Little problems with the sewing machine can be very irritating and time consuming. They can happen to even the most experienced seamstress.

A person operating the machine should be able to rectify these and solve the problems. Some of the common machine problems are listed below:

• Breaking needles
• Looping of stitches
• Skipping stitches
• Variation in stitch length
• Puckered seams
• Upper thread breaking

Why study Fashion Design?

Why study Fashion Design?

Fashion is the style of dressing that prevails among a group of persons which may last for a limited period of time. Fashion clothing has become a means of expressing individuals and creating identities. Fashion leads the apparel business by its very nature of changing constantly.

The Fashion Design & Product Development degree aims to develop young professionals having a creative flair for new and innovative styles of dressing. This is focussed on trend, lifestyle, market, and accounts for a large

Pre-treatment & Dyeing process flow chart?

Pre-treatment flow chart of Dyeing

Most textile materials and fabrics require pre treatments before they can be dyed. We use NaOH to remove wax, oil, fats and natural impurities from fabric, this process is called scouring which increase fabric absorbency. We use H2O2 to increase the fabric whiteness, this process is called bleaching. Because fabrics which have been prepared for dyeing must have sufficient absorbency and whiteness.

Fresh water and fabric Load at 45OC

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Temperature raise to 60OC

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Detergent, Peroxide Stabilizer inject

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Run for 5 min

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Inject Caustic and run 5 min

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Knit Dyeing | Common Problems in Dyeing and Their Remedies?

Dyeing is the process of adding color to the textile material. Dyeing process of knit fabric is different than others dyeing like fibre dyeing, yarn dyeing etc. During these dyeing observe different types of faults which is called dyeing faults.There are some processes, techniques which can apply to reduce these faults.

Dyeing Faults:
Major dyeing faults which are mentioned below:

1. Uneven Dyeing
2. Batch to Batch Shade variation
3. Crease mark
4. Dye spot
5. Wrinkle mark
6. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation
7. Dimensional stability (shrinkage)
8. Pilling 

Characteristics & Properties of reactive dye?

Characteristics of reactive group of reactive dye:

• The characteristics of reactive group of dye are mentioned below:
• Reactive groups do not contribute to the color of dye. Chromogen group imparts it.
• The reactivity of vinyl sulphone group is less than that of halogen group.
• If no of reactive group increases, binding also increases depending on dye structure.
• Reactive dye absorb up to 90%.
• Molecular weight of reactive group 69-211gm/ mole.
• Bond energy of halogen groups are as below:

F (Fluorine)- 102-kcal/ gm

Cl (chlorine) – 74-kcal/ gm

What are Reactive Dye? History of reactive dye?

A dye, which is capable of reacting chemically with a substrate to form a covalent dye substrate linkage, is known as reactive dye.

Here the dye contains a reactive group and this reactive group makes covalent bond with the fiber polymer and act as an integral part of fiber. This covalent bond is formed between the dye molecules and the terminal –OH (hydroxyl) group of cellulose fibers on between the dye molecules and the terminal –NH2 (amino) group of poly-amide or wool fibers.

Reaction:

D-SO2-CH2-CH2-OSO3Na +OH-cell     =>      D-SO2-CH2-CH2-O-cell + NaHSO3

D-SO2-CH2-CH2-OSO3Na + NH2- wool   =>    D-SO2-CH2-CH2-NH-Wool + NaHSO3

Here, D= dye part.

WHY FABRICS WRINKLE?

Why do some fabrics wrinkle and others don't? Close examination of this question reveals a relationship between moisture absorption and wrinkling. Wool and cotton fabrics wrinkle, both fibers absorb water. Polyester and nylon fabrics are more restive to wrinkling; they absorb much less than the other two.

To understand wrinkling of cellulose fibers, consider the stress and strain forces within a smooth rod as it bent - see figure 43. The stretching stresses at the outer reaches of the bend provide lateral forces to adjacent polymer chains which can cause them to move. The inner polymer chains are under compression stresses – also

Why Fabrics Shrinkage?

Woven and knitted goods are 3-dimensional arrays of crimped yarns. Fabric forming processes take straight lengths of yarns and force them into 2-dimensional crimped lengths. The degree of crimp is a function of the yarn size and fabric construction.

When fabric is completely relaxed, the crossing yarns will move around in relation to each other until a stable configuration is reached. This stable arrangement, the point where the relaxed fabric no longer shrinks in width and length, is also related to yarn sizes and fabric construction. When stretching tensions are applied to the fabric, the crimped amplitude decreases and the fabric grows in the direction of the stress. 

Later when the tensions are relieved and the fabric allowed relaxing, the crimp amplitude returns to its stable configuration and the fabric shrinks. Many fabrics are stretched during wet processing as they are pulled from one operation to another. This