A
guide to the terminology used in the description of various apparel.
Written By,
Nurul Amin
Jibon
IE Executive
(Mohammadi Group)
B.Sc In
Textile Engineer
Primeasia
University. Batch: 091
1x1 Rib Also 2x2 rib knit trim. The width of each rib is the same as the width
between each rib. This helps the garment retain its elasticity.
2-Way Zipper
A zipper with two zipper pulls so that it can be unzipped from either
direction.
All-Weather Microfiber 100% Polyester Microfiber with waterproof coating
and fully taped seams. 100% waterproof.
Anti-Pill
A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little
balls on the fabric’s surface due to abrasion during wear.
Appliqué
Decoration or trimming cut from one fabric piece and stitched to another to add
dimension.
Argyle
Typically a diamond pattern woven into a garment.
Baby Pique
Very small pique knit. See Pique Knit.
Back Pleats
Tiny folds in the material on the back of a garment that allow for more room
and comfort.
Back Yoke
A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This
allows the
garment to lay flat and drape nicely.
Backing
Material used beneath the embroidered fabric to provide stability and support.
Bartacked
Reinforced stitching; for example, the rivets used on the pockets of jeans.
Basket Weave
(Hanes 044X) Knit process of weaving yarns back and forth resulting in a
two-tone appearance.
Birdnesting
Thread collection between the fabric and needle plate, resembling a bird’s
nest.
Birdseye Jacquard A small geometric pattern with a center dot knit into the
fabric.
Blanket Stitch A decorative stitch used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The
stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket.
Bobbin
Spool or reel that holds the bobbin thread in a sewing/embroidery machine,
forms the stitches on the underside. Bobbin held in machine in bobbin case.
Bonded Fleece
Fleece with multiple layers bonded together to form a higher functioning
garment
Bonding
Permanently joining two fabrics together with a bonding agent, heat sealing.
Box Pleat
A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and
comfort.
Brushed Cotton Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and
fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish.
Buckram
Coarse-woven fabric stiffened with glue, used to stabilize items for
embroidery. Commonly used in caps.
Button-Through Sleeve Placket A small placket
located on the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.
Casual Microfiber 100% Polyester Microfiber fabric that is water repellent and
wind resistant.
Cavalry Twill
A type of Twill Weave (Pattern of the Twill).
Chambray
A dressier fabric woven with white threads across colored threads.
Collarette
The trim around the neck of a t-shirt or sweatshirt.
Combed Cotton
Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and straighten or
arrange longer fibers in parallel order.
Connecting Stitches Threads that connect short distanced objects in
embroidery. Distance of 1/16” is the industry standard for using a connecting
stitch.
Cool Mesh
Similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increased
breathability. Features a soft hand for better comfort.
Cord Locks
A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting into the
garment.
Coverseamed
A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching.
It is used around the neck, arm holes, waistband, and wrists of garments to
create a cleaner, more durable finish.
Cross Stitch
Two stitches that cross to form an X.
Denier
A density of the weave in a nylon or polyester product
Density
Number of stitches per given area.
Digitizing
Conversion of artwork into a series of commands read by an embroidery machine’s
computer via a card.
Disk 1 Tape
Disk containing computerized embroidery designs read by the embroidery
machine’s computer.
Double-Needle Stitched A finish used on a sleeve and/or bottom hem that
uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It gives the
garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability.
Dry-Fiber
(PING) A high activity sportswear fabric that absorbs, wicks and dries faster
than average golf wear.
Duck Cloth
Tightly woven fabric that provides wind and snag resistance.
Dyed-To-Match
Describes buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which
they are sewn.
Embroidery
Decorative stitching on fabric, combining texture, pattern and color.
Emblem/patch
Embroidered design with a finished edge, stitched independent of garment.
End-on-End
A 2-ply weave of different color yarns that run parallel against each other so
that both colors are visible.
Enzyme Washed
A laundering process in which a catalytic substance is added to create a
chemical change in the fabric resulting in a very soft finish, smoother
appearing surface and reduced shrinkage.
Etched Tone Buttons A more upscale horn tone button with an etched
pattern.
Extended Tail
When the back portion of the garment is longer than the front. Assists in
keeping the garment tucked in during normal activity.
Eyelets
Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability.
Finished with either stitching or brass grommets.
Fill Stitch
A series of running stitches commonly used to cover large areas.
Finishing
Processes done after the embroidery is completed, including trimming loose
threads, removing excess facing or backing, and pressing or steaming to remove
puckers and hoop marks.
Flagging
Up and down motion of the fabric under the needle action caused by improper
hooping. Results in poor registration, unsatisfactory stitch formation and bird-nesting.
Float
Longer-than-normal satin stitches that lay on top of a design, or the stitches
made when the needle is disconnecting from the design; later removed.
Frame
Holding device for inserting the hoop beneath the needle to maintain stability
during the embroidery process.
Full Cut
Refers to a garment’s fit as being generous and roomy.
Garment Dyed A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled.
Garment Washed A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to
help the cotton fibers relax or bloom. The result is a fabric with a thicker
appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand.
Herringbone A chevron or zig-zag pattern, knit into fabric.
High Profile A cap style with a high slope structured with buckram– a stiff
fabric lining. Less fitted to the head.
Hoop Wood,
plastic or steel device used to tightly grip the fabric and stabilizer between
an inner and outer ring. Attaches to machine’s frame. Designed to hold fabric
taut against the machine bed for embroidery.
Hooping Board Device that aids in precise placement and uniformity in hooping
subsequent garments or items for embroidery.
Horn Tone Buttons Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn.
Houndstooth A medium sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric.
Interlock Knit A fabric that has two plys knit simultaneously to form one
thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft
hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides.
Jacquard Knit A pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing
process. Typically, 2 or more colors are used.
Jersey Knit Fabric has a definite smooth side, the outside, and a textured
side, the inside.
Lock Stitch Formed by three or four consecutive short, tight threads stitched
at end of embroidery to prevent raveling.
Locker Loop A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the
convenience of hanging the garment on a hook.Can also be located at the center
of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment.
Locker Patch A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment,
just under the collar seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching
when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn
below the neckline to help prevent irritation.
Low Profile A cap style with a low slope that is more closely fitted to the
head.Can be either structured or unstructured.
Matte Taslan See Taslan but with a dull finish.
Melange A
mix of different colors of yarns knit together to create a heathered effect.
Mercerized
A product that has gone through a process to produce a smooth, lustrous hand.
Mesh Similar to
a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Larger
knit than Cool Weave.
Micro-Stripe An ultra-fine stripe that is knit into the fabric.
Microfiber Fabric that is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has
a sueded finish for a luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally
water repellent due to its construction process and when specially treated, can
also be waterproof.
Mid Profile A cap with a slope height in between that of a High Profile and
Low Profile. It is most often structured with buckram.
Monogram
Embroidered design composed of one or more letters, usually one’s initials.
Mother of Pearl Logo Buttons Buttons made from Mother of Pearl, with a logo
inscribed on them.
Nail Head Design A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design
similar to small nail heads.
Nublend™ The
combination of a knitting and spinning process developed by JERZEES® for their
blended fleece that helps prevent pilling.
Overdyed A
process in which yarn dyed fabrics or piece dyed garments are put through an additional
dye color to create unique colors.
Oxford A
type of fabric where the fibers are either cotton or blended man-made fibers.
Patch Pocket A pocket attached to the outside of a garment.
Pearlized Buttons Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.
Pewter and Horn Tone Buttons Buttons that incorporate pewter and horn tone, usually one
encompasses
the other.
Pewter Buttons Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue.
Pigment Dyed A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look.
Pill Free® A process developed by Lee® to help prevent pilling on fleece garments.
Pique Knit A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that
appears similar to a bird’s nest or waffle weave.
Placket The
part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together.
Poly-fill A
warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It
has more loft than a regular nylon lining.
Polynosic
Features similar characteristics to cotton and silk, has excellent luster and
very little shrink-age.
Popcorn Pique (PING) Alternating rows of 2 different pique knits; one knit is a baby
pique, while the other is a larger pique that resembles small circles knit
closely together.
Poplin A
tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using
a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.
Print ProTM A knitting process developed by Hanes® for their fleece garments
that creates a tighter knit for a better printing surface.
Puckering
Result of fabric being gathered by the stitches.Possible causes include loose
hooping, lack of or improper backing, incorrect tension or a dull needle.
Puff Embroidery Stitching a dense motif over embroidery/craft foam to create a
three-dimensional effect.
PVC A
polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.
R-TekTM Fleece 100% polyester fleece with an anti-pill finish which prevents the
formation of little balls on the surface of the fabric.
Raglan Sleeves Sleeves set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the armpit.
Resizing The
ability to scale a design to different sizes. May cause density problems unless
stitch count can be altered.
Reverse Placket See Placket, but reversed for women’s garments.
Rib Knit A
textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic
and retains “memory”.
Ring Spun Yarn Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton
fibers. The twisting makes the short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a
stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand.
Running Stitch A stitch that is spaced equally, with the underside stitching
being half the length of the external side.
Sandwashed A washing process in which the fabric is washed with very fine
lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed
look and reduced shrinkage.
Satin Stitch Formed by closely arranged zigzag stitches. Can be stitched at
any angle and with varying lengths.
Sculpted Hem A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail.
Self-fabric Collar A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body
of the garment.
Self-fabric Sweatband Refers to headwear where the sweatband is constructed with the
same fabric as the crown.
Serge Stitch An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to
prevent unraveling.
Side Vents Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details
that allow for comfort and ease of movement.
Singles A
term used to indicate the diameter of a yarn; the smaller the number, the
thicker the yarn.
Slash Pockets A pocket that has to be entered through a slash on the outside of
the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.
Specialty Fill Fill stitch capability that produces a design in relief.
Specialty Threads Threads designed for effects such as shine, glitter, iridescence
or thickness. The threads often are made from synthetic materials including
rayon, mercerized cotton, metallics and textured nylon.
Stonewashed A washing process in which the fabric or garment is heavily
washed with lavarocks or rubber/silicon balls. The result is a softer fabric
with a distressed or weathered look and reduced shrinkage.
Storm Flap A strip of fabric sewn under or over the front zip or snap
closure of an outerwear garment to protect against wind and moisture.
Structured A cap style with a lined front consisting of buckram, a stiff
fabric, that controls the slope of the cap.
Sueded Cotton A fabric that goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and
give the garment a soft hand.
Sueded Nylon See Sueded Cotton.
Taped Seams A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent
distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing.
Taslan
Refers to how the fibers are woven and the resulting texture. Used mainly in
outerwear garments, Taslan is a durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a
slightly shiny surface.
Teklon A
rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent.
Tension
Thread tautness.
Thread
Fine cord of natural or synthetic twisted fiber used for stitching. Machine
embroidery threads come in rayon (high sheen), cotton (duller finish),
polyester (strong and colorfast), metallic (synthetic core wrapped with metal
foil or thin slivers of metal foil) and acrylic (sheen similar to rayon).
Terra-TekTM A durable and water repellent Taslan with a matte finish.
Terry Velour A type of material with uncut loops on both sides. It has a soft,
plush feel and is water absorbent.
Topping
Material hooped or placed on top of fabric to hold the embroidery stitches
above it. Tricot Lining A very lightweight
nylon lining often used in shorts.
Triple-Needle Stitched See Double-Needle Stitched but with 3 stitches.
Tubular Collar Collar which is knit in a tube form so it has no seams.
Tuck-In Tails A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front.
This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-in during strenuous activities.
Twill A
fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.
Twill Tape Placket Lining Twill tape is attached to the inside of the placket
for a fashion effect.
Underarm Grommets Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air
circulation.
Unstructured A low profile cap style with a natural low sloping crown. No
buckram has been added to the crown.
V Patch A
section of material in a V shape that is sewn onto a garment directly under the
collarette. Can provide support against stretching the neck opening and is also
a style component.
Vents, Front & Back Allow for breathability and may aid in ease of decoration,
allowing the garment to be hooped and embroidered with no show-through on the
inside of the garment. Some vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes
only.
Waffle Weave/Knit A waffle, or square pattern, knit or woven into a garment.
Welt Collar and/or Cuffs A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars
and cuffs on sportshirts and short sleeve garments.
Wood Tone Buttons Buttons that simulate a
wood appearance.
Yarn Dyed
Yarn that has been dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment.
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