Introduction:
The central
feature of any sewing machine is the needle or needles. Very many needle types
(systems) have been developed over time to ensure each sewing machine that uses
them performs at its best.Needle systems may be introduced for a number of
reasons such as the introduction of new or specialised fabrics, newsewing
machinery or even increases in machine speed.
Each needle
system (needle type) will typically have between 6-8 sizes available, and in
the more popular systems there can be up to 15 sizes, with each of these
needles systems and sizes being available in a range of different needle points.
The following
guide has been put together to help gain a better understanding of sewing
machine needles.
The Basic function of
needle :
To create a passage in the
material for the thread to pass through
To carry the needle thread
through the material and form a loop which can be picked up by the hook or
looper mechanism
To pass the needle
thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism on machines other than
lockstitch
Needle parts : Physical
characteristics :
A needle has various
parts to execute different functions during the sewing operation as follows:
Butt
The
shaped top end which facilitates insertion into the needle bar/clamp.
Shank
The
thicker part of the needle held by the needle clamp or the needle set screw. It
supports the needle as a whole by providing additional strength.
Long
groove(s)
It
is present in one side of the needle blade for the convenience of the needle
thread from the take-up device and provides a protective channel in which the
thread is drawn down through the material during stitch formation.
Short
groove
It
is formed on the other side of long groove, towards the shuttle, hook, or
looper and it assists in throwing the loop of needle thread.
Eye
The
eye of the needle is present in the bottom end of the blade. Needle thread
allowed through this eye is taken to the bottom area.
Blade
The
needle portion extends from the shank to the eye. This is subjected to the
greatest amount of friction and hence heat when it passes through the material.
Shoulder
The
intermediate section between the shank and the blade.
Scarf
(Clearance)
It is a clearance cut in the
needle blade just above the eye to permit a closer setting of the shuttle,
hook, or looper to the needle.
Point
The point of the needle is shaped
to provide the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according
to its nature and the desired stitch effect.
Tip
The extreme tip shape, in
combination with the point defines penetration performance
Other variants
Most needles are constructed
using these features but there are a number of exceptions. Some of which may
have been developed to overcome specific seaming issues or simply designed to
meet the machine requirements.
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